Carrier Oils: choosing one for your skin type

Carrier oils, some times called base oils, are oils derived from seeds, nuts, beans, fruits and vegetables.  They are called base oils as other ingredients are usually added to them, although they can be used alone or in combination with other base oils.    They are used to make salves, lotions and creams, massage and body oils and even lathering agents for soaps. Essential oils may be diluted in base oils so they are safe to use.  Most essential oils are too concentrated to be used directly on the skin.

When choosing carrier oils, it's important to note a couple of things.  You will need to know your skin type.  Each carrier oil has different properties and may not be beneficial for all skin types.  It's also important to choose a minimally processed oil.  The best oils will be organic, extracted naturally and not exposed to extreme heat during extraction.  If an oil is not organic it may be from a GMO (genetically modified organism) and may have been exposed to pesticides.

Understanding basic processing and refining terms will help you choose the freshest oils.  Unfortunately though, in the US, these terms aren't regulated so if in doubt, call the company and ask about the processing.

Cold pressed- Low heat mechanical extraction where temperatures are controlled between 80-90°F.  These oils can be cold pressed:  avocado, olive, pumpkin, flaxseed, sunflower, and peanut oils.

Expeller pressed- Oils are produced using mechanical pressure on a press where the frictional heat is kept between 120-125°F.

If the oil doesn't say cold or expeller pressed, it is probably processed in a very unhealthy way using chemical extraction which produces higher yields and is quicker and cheaper. The most common solvent is petroleum derived hexane gas.  

Unrefined- The oil is mechanical screen filtered.  There is no additional refining.  The oil has a rich color and a strong flavor.

Partially refined-  Used for oils that go rancid quickly or to remove heavy odors or deep colors. 

Refined- Oils are exposed to all levels of temperatures from 450°F to -30°F.

Now that you know what to look for on the label, how do you choose the right oil for your skin?  Each oil has a different make up of antioxidant properties, vitamins and minerals.  Some oils are heavy and take a while to absorb.  These may be great for the body but not the face.  Others are thin and absorb more quickly making them perfect for the face but not desirable as massage oils.  Some oils are comedogenic (they clog pores more easily) and others are fine for all skin types.

Here is a breakdown of some of the most common oils and which skin types they benefit.

Oil	Skin Type	Viscosity	Penetration	Other
Almond	all	Light to medium weight	fast
Apricot Kernel	All, especially sensitive	Light weight	fast	Slightly astringent
Avocado	Dry, eczema	Heavy	slow	Use a 10% dilution
Borage	Eczema, sensitive	Light weight	fast	Goes rancid quickly. Use a 10% dilution.
Coconut Oil	Normal, Dry	Light weight	Fast	Comedogenic- may clog pores
Evening Primrose	Eczema, psoriasis	Light weight	fast	Use a 10% dilution. Very expensive.
Grape seed	All	Light weight	Fast	Astringent qualities make it great for oily skin.
Jojoba	All, especially inflamed skin	Medium weight	Fast	This is actually a wax not an oil.
Macadamia	Sensitive, damaged, mature	Light to Medium weight	Moderate	Similar to jojoba and sunflower oils
Olive	Normal, dry	Moderately heavy	Moderate	Moderately comedogenic
Sesame	Normal to dry	Heavy	Moderate	Long shelf life and low natural spf
Soybean	All	Light	Fast	Use organic.  Natural insect repelling qualities.
Sunflower	All	Light to Medium	Moderate	High vitamin E content makes it very healing.

 Hope this helps you choose the right oil for your skin! 

Thanks for reading and
NOURISH YOUR SKIN SAFELY®!
Karen
begreenbathandbody.com

The Wonders of Shea Butter

With all of the snow and freezing cold weather here in Massachusetts this winter, my go to ingredient has been shea butter.  I've come to love it so much that I always carry a tin of raw shea butter in my bag so I can moisture my hands, lips and cuticles anytime they need it.  I love how it instantly moisturizes and leaves my skin feeling soft for a good while, even after hand washing.

Shea butter actually comes from the karate tree which grows in the wild in west and central Africa.  The tree takes 50 years to mature and can live to 300 years!  To extract the butter, the tree nuts are cracked open and roasted.  The butter is then scooped out and kneaded.  Pure unrefined shea butter has a distinct nutty smell and is either cream or yellow in color.  I don't find the smell unpleasant and it dissipates quickly after putting it on your skin.

Shea butter is great because it's such a multi-tasker.  For one it improves wrinkles due to it's natural vitamin A content when used regularly over 4 to 6 weeks.  It treats and protects as it promotes cell regeneration and circulation with vitamin F and it moisturizes due to the high fatty acid content (oleic, stearic and linoleic).  It also has a decent vitamin E content and contains cinnamic acid which helps protect skin from UV rays in conjunction with other ingredients.  Shea butter shouldn't be used on its own as a sunscreen, however.

I find that shea butter is useful for so many skin conditions!  Here are some of the many:

- dry skin anywhere on your body (I especially love it on my hands.)
- rough skin (especially of feet and elbows but also on the face)
- itchy skin (from rashes, insect bites and even poison ivy)
- sunburned skin
- cracked skin and peeling skin
- eczema and dermatitis
- scars and stretch marks
- scalp conditioner
- dry, brittle hair
- cuticles and nails
- lips

One of the great things about shea butter is that not only is it non-toxic (it's rated a "0" on the EWG skin deep cosmetics database, meaning it's thought to be very safe) but it's also non-comedogenic.   This means that it won't clog your pores.  It's rated a 0 on a scale of 0 to 5 on the comedogenic index.  Shea butter is solid but pliable in cold weather but melts at skin temperature and is absorbed quickly as it penetrates the skin.  Shea butter is not recommended for those with nut and latex allergies.

If you're suffering from crazy dry skin like me, please check out Be Green Bath and Body's products that contain pure, unrefined organic shea butter.  It can be found in these products:  Shea Butter Tin, Shea Butter Hand Cream, Herbal Miracle Balm, Baby Balm and Organic Beautiful Skin Butter.

Thanks for reading and "Nourish your skin safely"!
Karen
begreenbathandbody.com